{"id":11152,"date":"2025-05-29T10:19:11","date_gmt":"2025-05-29T10:19:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/?p=11152"},"modified":"2025-05-29T10:19:24","modified_gmt":"2025-05-29T10:19:24","slug":"rock-climbing-knots-tutorials-part-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/index.php\/2025\/05\/29\/rock-climbing-knots-tutorials-part-4\/","title":{"rendered":"Rock Climbing Knots Tutorials (Part\u00a04)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong>4.1 Prusik Knot (also spelled Prussik Knot)<\/strong><\/p><p>This knot was first used in the early 19th century by Dr. Karl Prusik (a physician). It has become so universal that &#8220;Prusik Knot&#8221; typically refers to this specific knot.<\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>First, use a 35-40 cm long piece of accessory cord (5-6 mm diameter). Connect both ends with a Double Fisherman&#8217;s Bend to form a loop.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1-17.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1-17.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1-17-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Place this loop behind the main rope (9-11 mm diameter).<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/2-17.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/2-17.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/2-17-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Holding the Double Fisherman&#8217;s Bend knot, bring it over the main rope.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/3-11.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11155\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/3-11.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/3-11-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Wrap it around the main rope once.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/4-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11156\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/4-7.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/4-7-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Wrap it around again.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/5-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11157\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/5-5.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/5-5-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Wrap it at least three full times.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/6-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11158\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/6-6.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/6-6-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Finally, thread the end through the original loop and tighten.<\/li><\/ul><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Uses of the Prusik Knot:<\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Ascending the main rope (functions like an ascender).<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Providing backup safety while rappelling.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Forming key components (e.g., progress capture pulley) in Z-rig pulley systems for rescue.<\/li><\/ul><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Important Notes:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The accessory cord diameter must be smaller than the main rope diameter. Minimum accessory cord diameter is 5 mm; main rope diameter should not be less than 9 mm. For safety, typically use 6 mm accessory cord with 9.8-14 mm main ropes.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Use <strong>3 wraps<\/strong>.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>If using thicker accessory cord (e.g., 7 mm), use fewer wraps (generally 2 wraps), although its performance is not as good as using 6 mm cord.<\/li><\/ul><p><strong>4.2 French Prusik (also called Autoblock)<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>A relatively simple knot, which can also be tied with a 10 cm wide nylon sling (webbing). A recent test using accessory cord loops found the French Prusik to be the best knot for rappel backup, being safer and easier to use than other friction hitches.<\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Simply wrap the loop around the main rope 4-5 times from top to bottom.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/7-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11159\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/7-6.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/7-6-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/8-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11160\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/8-5.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/8-5-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/9-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11161\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/9-5.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/9-5-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/10-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11162\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/10-4.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/10-4-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/11-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11163\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/11-4.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/11-4-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Important Notes:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Typically use 6 mm accessory cord with 9.8-14 mm main ropes.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Use<strong>\u00a05-6 wraps<\/strong>.<\/li><\/ul><p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong>4.3 Bachmann Knot<\/strong><\/p><p>I initially hesitated to include this knot, as improper use can be dangerous.<\/p><p>However, I believe climbers are responsible individuals who value their own lives and their families.<\/p><p>Instead of saying &#8220;it&#8217;s dangerous for you or you lack experience, so don&#8217;t use it,&#8221; it&#8217;s better to provide a clear explanation.<\/p><p>A recent test found the Bachmann Knot performed better than the Prusik Knot for rappel backup.<\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Clip a <strong>carabiner <\/strong>into the loop.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"446\" height=\"564\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/12-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11164\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/12-2.jpg 446w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/12-2-237x300.jpg 237w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/12-2-150x190.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 446px) 100vw, 446px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Take the knotted end of the loop, pass it through the carabiner, and wrap it around the main rope.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"471\" height=\"607\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/13-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11165\" style=\"width:439px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/13-1.jpg 471w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/13-1-233x300.jpg 233w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/13-1-150x193.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 471px) 100vw, 471px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Use a <strong>separate carabiner<\/strong>\u00a0to clip into the loop containing the Double Fisherman&#8217;s Bend knot at the bottom. Connect this carabiner to your harness for backup.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"578\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/14-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11166\" style=\"width:439px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/14-1.jpg 480w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/14-1-249x300.jpg 249w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/14-1-150x181.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/figure><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Critical Notes:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The <strong>load point is NOT the carabiner<\/strong>. <strong>NEVER<\/strong>\u00a0grip the carabiner and attempt to use it as an ascender handle.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The carabiner&#8217;s purpose is to facilitate <strong>releasing<\/strong>\u00a0the knot, allowing it to be pushed up or slid down the rope easily.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Always<\/strong>\u00a0use a separate carabiner clipped into the bottom loop (with the Double Fisherman&#8217;s Bend) connected to your harness for backup.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>To arrest a fall or stop, <strong>release your hand completely<\/strong>\u00a0and <strong>do not touch the top carabiner<\/strong>. The knot will automatically tighten and hold.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Typically use 6 mm accessory cord with 10-14 mm main ropes. Use <strong>3-4 wraps<\/strong>.<\/li><\/ul><p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong>4.4 Klemheist Knot<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>Another friction hitch. The difference from the French Prusik is that the bottom end of the loop is threaded through the top end and then clipped. Consequently, the Klemheist Knot <strong>only locks in one direction<\/strong>. It ranked last in the test.<\/p><p>Typically use 6 mm accessory cord with 9-11 mm main ropes. Use <strong>3-4 wraps<\/strong>.<\/p><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"468\" height=\"599\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/15-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11167\" style=\"width:439px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/15-1.jpg 468w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/15-1-234x300.jpg 234w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/15-1-150x192.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"510\" height=\"680\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/16-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11168\" style=\"width:439px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/16-1.jpg 510w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/16-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/16-1-150x200.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/figure><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Test Results &amp; Source:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>The tests and results mentioned were published in 2006 by Dr. R. G. Farmer, Chairman of the Queensland Mountain Rescue Association, Australia.<\/p><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Ranking for Rappel Backup:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Best:<\/strong>\u00a0French Prusik (Autoblock)<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Second:<\/strong>\u00a0Bachmann Knot<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Third:<\/strong>\u00a0Prusik Knot (Prussik Knot)<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Last: <\/strong>Klemheist Knot<\/li><\/ul><p><strong>Note: <\/strong><em>Tests were conducted in dry conditions. Performance may differ in alpine environments where the main rope is icy.<\/em><\/p><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Practical Usage Tips:<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>I typically use the French Prusik (Autoblock) for rappel backup.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>If carrying extra carabiners, I use the Bachmann Knot for ascending the rope.<\/li><\/ul><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>For setting up pulley systems in rescue situations, I use the Prusik Knot because it remains secure even when placed on the ground.<\/li><\/ul><p><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>4.1 Prusik Knot (also spelled Prussik Knot) This knot was first used in the early 19th century by Dr. Karl<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":11170,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[106],"tags":[263,261],"class_list":["post-11152","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-expert-advice","tag-advanced-skills","tag-outdoor-skills"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Rock Climbing Knots Tutorials (Part\u00a04) - AOKWIT: Professional provider of high-quality UIAA mountaineering, rappelling, rock climbing, and training gear, dedicated to equipping adventurers with reliable and performance-driven equipment for all their outdoor challenges.<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link 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