{"id":11190,"date":"2025-06-06T09:38:48","date_gmt":"2025-06-06T09:38:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/?p=11190"},"modified":"2025-06-09T08:51:51","modified_gmt":"2025-06-09T08:51:51","slug":"rock-climbing-knots-tutorials-part-6","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/index.php\/2025\/06\/06\/rock-climbing-knots-tutorials-part-6\/","title":{"rendered":"Rock Climbing Knots Tutorials (Part\u00a06)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong>6.1 Alpine Butterfly Knot (also known as Butterfly Knot)<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>A beautifully named knot. Used during roped travel to create a secure mid-rope attachment point for a middle climber to clip directly into their harness with a carabiner.<\/p><p>Also used to connect the middle of a rope to an anchor when setting up a fixed line.<\/p><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Place the rope across your palm.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128905.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128905.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128905-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Form three loops.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128171.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128171.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128171-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128197.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128197.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128197-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Pull the center loop through the third loop.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128221.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11196\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128221.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128221-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Flip\/Rotate the knot to the left.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128268.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11197\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128268.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128268-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Then pull this loop through the first and third loops to the right.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128289.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128289.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128289-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Tighten the knot to form the Butterfly Knot.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128340.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128340.jpg 320w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159128340-150x113.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Flip the knot over \u2013 see if it resembles a butterfly with spread wings.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"570\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130463_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11205\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130463_thumb.jpg 570w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130463_thumb-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130463_thumb-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/figure><p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong>6.2 Alpine Clutch (also known as Garda Hitch)<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>This is a one-way progress capture hitch. I first encountered this knot during my initial mountain guide training, introduced by a French instructor \u2013 I&#8217;m sure Lao Ma and Teacher Sun would remember it.<\/p><p>This hitch can be used in rescue pulley systems to replace a Prusik hitch. Its drawback is that it can sometimes be very difficult to release.<\/p><p>&nbsp;Attach two carabiners with their <strong>gates facing the same direction<\/strong>&nbsp;but with <strong>opposing gate openings<\/strong>&nbsp;(one up, one down).<\/p><p>&nbsp;Oval carabiners are used in principle, though they are less common now. Pear-shaped carabiners are absolutely unsuitable.<\/p><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"570\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb.jpg 570w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/figure><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"570\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb.jpg 570w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130295_thumb-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Insert the rope into both carabiners, with the <strong>loaded strand<\/strong>\u00a0passing behind them.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"426\" height=\"570\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153503XzxS7R.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11191\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153503XzxS7R.jpg 426w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153503XzxS7R-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153503XzxS7R-150x201.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Take the <strong>brake strand<\/strong>\u00a0and wrap it around behind the carabiners.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"426\" height=\"570\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153533tJomqZ.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11192\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153533tJomqZ.jpg 426w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153533tJomqZ-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1159153533tJomqZ-150x201.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Clip it into the <strong>rear carabiner<\/strong>.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"426\" height=\"570\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/11591535567eQ2Z0.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/11591535567eQ2Z0.jpg 426w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/11591535567eQ2Z0-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/11591535567eQ2Z0-150x201.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Pinch the brake strand between the two carabiners (the view from behind may be clearer).<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"570\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129627_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11201\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129627_thumb.jpg 570w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129627_thumb-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129627_thumb-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/figure><ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Pulling the brake strand will raise the loaded strand. Releasing the brake hand allows the hitch to automatically lock\/capture. The diagram below shows the hitch under tension.<\/li><\/ul><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"570\" height=\"427\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129757_thumb.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11202\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129757_thumb.jpg 570w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129757_thumb-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159129757_thumb-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/figure><p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Example of a 3:1 Pulley System in Use<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p><p>This setup uses one Garda Hitch and one Klemheist (K) hitch. Note the <strong>direction of loading <\/strong>on the Klemheist hitch. Climbers may note the Garda Hitch functions slightly better in a vertical orientation.<\/p><figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"195\" height=\"233\" src=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130519.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11206\" style=\"width:295px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130519.jpg 195w, https:\/\/aokwit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/post-122834-1159130519-150x179.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 195px) 100vw, 195px\" \/><\/figure><p><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>6.1 Alpine Butterfly Knot (also known as Butterfly Knot) A beautifully named knot. Used during roped travel to create a<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":11279,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[106],"tags":[263,261],"class_list":["post-11190","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-expert-advice","tag-advanced-skills","tag-outdoor-skills"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Rock Climbing Knots Tutorials (Part\u00a06) - AOKWIT: Professional provider of high-quality UIAA mountaineering, rappelling, rock climbing, and training gear, dedicated to equipping adventurers with reliable and performance-driven equipment for all their outdoor challenges.<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/aokwit.com\/index.php\/2025\/06\/06\/rock-climbing-knots-tutorials-part-6\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rock Climbing Knots Tutorials (Part\u00a06) - AOKWIT: Professional provider of high-quality UIAA mountaineering, rappelling, rock climbing, and training gear, dedicated to equipping adventurers with reliable and performance-driven equipment for all their outdoor challenges.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"6.1 Alpine Butterfly Knot (also known as Butterfly Knot) A beautifully named knot. 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