Bouldering Practice Method for Beginners–2-Hour Training Routine

Most beginners spend their time on long top-roping routes in artificial climbing gyms, which yields limited progress in climbing ability.

Bouldering, however, effectively enhances climbers’ explosive power and refines technique. Yet, newcomers often feel intimidated by the difficulty of bouldering routes or risk overtraining injuries.

To address this, this article introduces an engaging “2-Hour Bouldering Practice Method” designed to help beginners experience the joy of bouldering while observing noticeable improvements in strength and technique over time.

I. Training Content for the First Hour

Follow a critical principle: After completing one route, proceed to the next, then the next… During the first hour, focus on improving technique by attempting moderately challenging bouldering routes.

Bouldering demands advanced climbing skills such as grip techniques, weight shifting, and mastering movement sequences and rhythm. The more challenging bouldering moves you complete, the more techniques you learn, and the better your body adapts to harder routes.

Primary Goal: Identify routes that push your limits but are still achievable within the first hour.

Route Design Principles:

1. Length: Design routes with 6+ moves to test strength and technique, but avoid excessive length that causes arm fatigue.

2. Difficulty: Avoid routes that can be completed on the first or second attempt—these are too easy for effective training.

3. Adjustability: If a route feels too hard (e.g., repeated falls or loss of motivation), switch to a simpler one.

4. Refinement: If a route is well-designed, practice each move repeatedly. Experiment with alternate footholds, movements, and segmented drills. Focus on perfecting each action without restarting from the beginning.

5. Rest: Rest 3-5 minutes after each attempt to maintain efficiency.

6. Customization: Modify existing routes to suit your skill level or collaborate with peers of similar ability to design routes for each other.

7. Completion Priority: Aim to complete 1-2 routes within the first hour.

II. Second Hour Practice Content – Repetition

The core rule here is: Abandon moves you cannot complete.

For beginners, deliberate training on excessively hard moves is unnecessary. Instead, repeat routes you barely completed in the first hour to refine technique and build endurance.

The 3×3 Rule: *Climb three routes three times each, with 3-minute rests between attempts.*

Example:

• After identifying suitable routes in the first hour, climb one route, rest 3 minutes, repeat twice more, then take a 10-minute break.
• Repeat this pattern for the second and third routes. If stamina allows, add a fourth route.

III. Prioritize Climbing Quality

For beginners, progress stems from technical improvement, not raw strength or endurance.

Post-Training Recovery:

• Allow at least one full day of rest after training. Extend rest periods if fatigue persists.
• Avoid overtraining—rest is critical for skill consolidation.

Notes:

• The 2-hour timeframe excludes warm-up and cool-down.
• Observe others’ climbing techniques during rest intervals for additional insights.