Advanced Skills: Winter Ice Climbing Skills – Part 3
VII. Technique Fault Finding – 6 Classic Mistakes
1. Observed Fault: Chicken winging
Description of Fault:
Climber moves up to far on tools placed to far out to either side.
Corrective Action:
Body positioning and tool placements in relation to centre of mass. Check ice tools are placed in target area above centre of mass and check climber not moving up too far on placements.
2.Observed Fault: Barn dooring
Description of Fault:
Tool placement and crampon placement fails causing climber to swing away from the ice like a door on it’s hinges.
Corrective Action:
Body positioning and tool placements in relation to centre of mass. Emphasise bridging position at end of movement sequence.
3.Observed Fault: Ice picks glancing or bouncing of the ice
Description of Fault:
When placing tools they tend to bounce or glance of the ice as though hitting concrete.
Corrective Action:
Poor ice tool swing – check technique for: Wrist flick at end of swing. Tool/wrist/elbow/shoulder in straight line when swinging ice tool. Body positioning when placing tool – hip roll. If wearing leashes check fitting of leash length.
4.Observed Fault: Forearms quickly becoming pumped
Description of Fault:
Climber complains arms become pumped very quickly regardless of angle of the ice i.e. steepness.
Corrective Action:
Climber over-gripping on tools: focus on relaxing grip after placing tools. Shake-out often. If wearing leashes check fitting of leash around wrist.
5.Observed Fault: Crampon points shearing out
Description of Fault:
Crampon points shear out as climber moves up or places tools.
Corrective Action:
Climber’s heels too high. This can be caused by: Over-stretching to place ice tools. Legs very straight (climber will also complain of sore calves). Incorrect body positioning.
6.Observed Fault: Crampon points not penetrating the ice
Description of Fault:
Crampon points appear to not penetrate the ice or bounce of the ice whilst being placed.
Corrective Action:
Climber’s heels too high when kicking points in. Emphasise dropping heels slightly and swinging kick hinging on knee.
